How to Choose Hiking Boots – Hiking Shoes Buying Guide

To avoid feet pain: Choosing the right shoe size.

​The inner edge of the shoe must be straight without any deformation.

The width of the shoe should ideally be within 10 mm of the width of the forefoot.

How much toe room in hiking boots? Your ​boots should be 1 to 2 cm longer than your foot so that it is not in an abutment at the end of the hiking shoes.

Moreover, during the effort, the volume of your foot will change. It is thus necessary to leave some extra space for your feet to adjust during the day.

To stop foot pain: The importance of insoles

Let's talk about insoles and their importance for your comfort in hiking boots or other shoes.

The discomfort felt with a hiking boot on your feet is nine times out of ten, caused by poor foot arch support. It is then necessary to put insoles in your shoes.

90% of customers leave a hiking gear shop with a pair of insoles to put in all their hiking shoes: as I have said, your feet are not universal.

A foot is made up of 28 bones, 27 muscles, and 33 levels of articulation!

The different parts of the foot have other volumes, sizes, or ​postures from one individual to another.

In addition to the variable ​characteristics of the foot, there are multiple shapes and volumes with hollow and flat feet, and not all will behave in the same way.

​To choose the right insoles, you must know if you have a pronator or supinator feet.

Examine the wear and tear on the soles of your shoes:

Pronation: If the inside of your sole is very worn, then your foot is pronated.

Pronation is a normal and natural shock absorption movement of the foot and is characterized by a slight inward bend.

Supination: the outside of your sole is the most damaged, so your feet supinate.

Supination is an outward movement of the foot.

The 3 Feet insoles are designed to adapt to the three different types of arch: high, mid, and low to meet each morphology's support needs.

As a result, the whole posture is improved: the body's alignment is better, as well as the stability, thanks to a good distribution of the supports.

Available in two versions, classic or slim, they will fit perfectly in all types of shoes.

Superfeet ergonomic insoles feature an ADD/APT stabilizer system with a heel cup that encapsulates the fat pad under the heel to promote natural shock absorption.

Consequently, they limit the phenomenon of foot dropping and excessive pronation/supination and protect your knees and hips.

Available in different materials and volumes, they offer an answer according to the morphology of the feet, the shape of the shoe, and the activity practiced.

The high ​cut: the most secure.

This height of the upper perfectly supports the ankle, even on very steep terrain.

High-cut shoes, also called high-ankle hiking boots, are ideal for long hikes and treks, as fatigue sometimes causes you to take false steps: whatever happens, the upper will hold the feet and ankles effectively.

The mid cut: the most versatile.

​The medium upper, called "mid," is the perfect intermediate between the high and low upper.

Like all "in-between" products, it is intended for versatile use, from short hikes to itinerant treks on easy to medium trails.

The mid-cut holds the ankle more flexibly than a high upper, making the shoe lighter.

The low ​cut: the lightest.

It leaves the ankle free to move, perfect for strolling, active walking, and short hikes on easy trails where you don't want the constraints of high uppers.

Some shoes have lower uppers that are stiffer for hill running or fast hiking; these are called trail shoes.

Traction is the ability of the shoe to progress on hostile and unstable terrain (mud, sand, snow). Deep, sculpted crampons provide an excellent grip.

The traction allows you to walk easily on rough but challenging terrain (rocks, stones). The shoes are equipped with wide and shallow patterns for a good grip.

Cushioning is a fundamental criterion for the comfort and protection of joints and tendons. Depending on the shape of the sole: flat, raised at the front, or the back, the cushioning helps to reduce the impact of the feet on the ground.

The width of the sole says a lot about the stability it provides. A narrow sole is made for precision in rugged or challenging terrain.

It is recommended for mountaineering shoes, approach walking, or challenging hiking.

A wide sole is intended for a large footprint on the ground, so stability is perfect.

On the other hand, this type of sole is much less suitable in steep terrain because it will take up too much space on the ground.

The stiffness indicates for which type of hiking the shoe has been designed. It is tested by trying to bend the hiking boot:

A rigid sole is intended for experienced hiking and trekking on challenging terrains.

Soft (or semi-rigid) soles are for easy trail hikes or active hikers who need good thrust.

Just as rubber in car tires, there are different qualities of shoe soles: Contagrip, Vibram, Michelin.

The ​stone guards

​It is a shell at the front of the shoe to protect your toes in case of impact with stones or abrasion.

It is an element to be considered, especially for long-distance hikers, trekkers, or even occasional walkers who walk on uneven ground.

The lacing

Proper lacing of your hiking boots is essential, yet few hikers give it the importance it deserves.

Laces guarantee the final support of your shoes. They "lock" your feet to ensure they are as secure as they should be.

A poorly laced shoe is the number one factor in hiking injuries in terms of falls and foot injuries.

In fact, with badly laced shoes, your feet move, an actual invitation to friction, resulting in blisters.

The simple laces, or classic laces, are the laces we all know, but they are more resistant, so they hold up over the long term. Round or flat, it's up to you. The trick is to tighten them well.

The quick-pull system, also called the pull-cord lacing system, is quick and easy to use: pull on the handle, and the shoe is tightened. The tightening is homogeneous, and the feeling of support is very satisfactory.

The heel lock eyelets (hooks), or lace locks, are potentially a criterion of choice since they allow you to tie your hiking boots properly.

Thanks to the self-locking hooks, your laces are maintained and do not risk loosening.

Leather

Advantages: very supple and durable because it is a resistant material and naturally waterproof: it prevents water from passing through the shoe by absorbing it, but remember that by soaking up water, it becomes considerably heavier.

To a certain extent, leather is also breathable, even if it remains true that synthetic shoes will be greatly appreciated in case of warm temperatures.

To overcome this problem, some hiking boots are made of nubuck or suede, which are more breathable and sensitive to rain.

Disadvantages: it requires constant and rigorous maintenance. It must be nourished, moisturized, and treated to keep its natural waterproofness.

Make sure to distinguish nubuck from suede leather. 

Nubuck leather comes directly from classic leather sanded to give it a soft feel and a velvety appearance. When you touch nubuck leather, you can sometimes still feel the grains of leather that have resisted sanding.

Suede leather is different: the "underside leather" is the back of the animal skin.

Hiking boots manufacturers use robust materials such as Nylon, Kevlar, and Polyester.

Advantages: a flexible, light material with naturally breathable qualities. Much more pleasant than leather, especially in summer.

Disadvantages: a synthetic hiking boot is not waterproof: if it rains, water immediately runs through the fabric.

However, to improve their water resistance, many hiking boots are made with waterproof membranes (the next paragraph will tell you more).

Synthetic shoes are slightly less robust than leather shoes.

Prefer waterproof membranes

​These exist for more than just clothing.

Gore-Tex, OutDry, and eVent are all brands of membranes also present in the world of footwear.

Remember, a waterproof membrane is not watertight!

We even talk about a waterproof-breathable membrane because it prevents the raindrops from passing through it while letting water vapor (sweat) escape.

But in the long run, the water ends up passing through.

Use waterproofing products

​They are not as effective as a membrane, but they provide water-repellent treatment to all your hiking boots.

It's as if you were smearing your shoe with a rainproof film.

Remember that this treatment will wear off with each exposure to rain, so it should be done more or less regularly depending on your use, or even better: in regular maintenance.

Equip yourself with gaiters or overboots

​Finally, whether you have shoes with membrane or not, it is possible to improve the waterproofing of your boots in extreme conditions with gaiters or overboots.

Gaiters and overboots protect the shoe's upper and shaft from water penetration.

Gaiters and especially overboots also have an undeniable windproofing effect which can be indispensable in high mountain or polar regions.

The Old Hiker’s Advice

​We don't always think about it, but when you use a rain cape or a hiking poncho, it is strongly advised to equip yourself with a pair of gaiters.

Why?

Because the water that will slide down your rain cape will drip directly onto your shoes.

By wearing gaiters, which will cover the collar of your hiking boots, you will prevent the water from entering and getting your feet wet.

Winter

Your pair of hiking socks should insulate you from the cold while allowing your feet to breathe.

Be careful not to choose too thick socks, which could add bulk to your shoes.

Summer

​There are more parameters to consider depending on the sources of discomfort that we have all, at least once, had the opportunity to experience: sweaty feet, socks that quickly get holes, heavy legs, etc.

1

Bring a pair of hiking socks with you

​2

​​Tighten your shoes as usual and walk, climb stairs, if possible, on a slope for a real-life test, and above all, do not remain seated.

​3

​Don't hesitate to keep your ​boots on for at least an hour and exaggerate your walking movements. Unroll your foot to the extreme, and go down slight slopes.

​Your foot should feel supported without being compressed, with enough room to be comfortable.

​The heel must be well anchored in the shoe, and we will tolerate a small detachment of about 0.2in (½ cm) but not more.

​Lastly, your toes should be comfortable, not curled up or squashed. The foot should spread out over the entire length of the shoe and across the whole width.